Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
